18th Century Fitting

My first fitting is the 18th century corset. Im was very nervous before fittings as in previous projects they haven’t gone so well. I have always got high marks on the professional side and how I conduct my self and make my actor feel at ease but I’ve never had on with only a few alterations needed. I believe its down to my pattern drafting and is something I’ve defiantly tried to work on in this project.











I was pleasantly surprised !! The corset was a good fit. The model felt comfortable and there was a gap in the back for tightening once she had got used to wearing a corset. The arm hole was comfortable and the model had easy movement. The only alteration was the angle of the strap. The strap needs to slop around the shoulder leaving a wider view of the bust area, Graham told me that changing of this angle had nothing to do with the lack of drafting skills, the placement is different for every person, and that’s why we do the fittings.

Things need to alter -

-Bring top design line up using all the seam allowance.
- change angle of strap and size of strap

the next step is to recut the alterations in drill and top fabric. Hopefully my next fittings will go as well.

Drafting

Reflection

I Just wanted to reflect on the pattern drafting so far. Graham has taught us a different method of drafting without using a basic block. I was hesitant at first as I thought for some reason that a basic block was like security blankets as we have used them in all the projects. Once I began drafting Grahams way I realised how wrong that was. This newer method allows a bit more freedom to pattern drafting. If you get the first 3 step of a basic block wrong even buy 1cm your whole toile will go wrong , where as this way because you are dictating were to put the lines not following equations I believe it made me really think about what I was doing. It also helped me understand the shaping of the corset and I managed to visualise it in 3D . This is something that I haven’t been able to do before and preferably would choose cutting on stand but this method seem to gel with my way of learning. Because this is a weakness of mine I’ve been double checking everything which has been helpful but also time consuming and I need to have confidence in what I’ve drafted and start cutting out. The real test will be when it comes to fittings to see weather I have managed to overcome my fear of pattern drafting .

giving it a go

know that Ive drafted my patterns Ive asked graham to give them a look over and he seemed pleased and at first glance looks all is well. Next step is to start making up the toile.

The Corset Crusaders take on London..........

‘The Corset Crusaders’ (Mandy, Charlie, George and I) headed to London today for our Arts Ed meeting and hopefully some museum seeing. Ase Afar the head of the costume wardrobe at Arts Ed had some initial ideas for what they wanted and thankfully we were all on the same wave length and had a clear idea to proceed. The corset structure we had chosen as a group matched the one Ase had chosen so the next step is pattern drafting.

Things we need to bear in mind –

- All bones will be enclosed expect the side seams for ease of access for future alterations.
- Backed in drill
- All corset to be different but need to work as a collection

Once we had finsed bombarding Ase with questions we loaded up on an ungodly amount of drill and headed into London.
To get inspiration and to broaden our cultural horizons we head to ‘The National Gallery.’ I’m a notorious Postcard fiend and here are some of my favourites from that day

The Tailor – Giovanni Battista Moroni 1520-1579
The title and subject matter made this a firm favourite of mine to begin. But with the added beauty of the Tudor men’s doublet and slashing embellishment it stood out without contest.




Mrs Siddon- Thomas Gainsborough 1727- 1788
A stunning example of one fashion phase from the 18th century. Mrs Siddon was one of the 18th century most famous actresses.



Marriage A-la-Mode: 2. The Tete a Tete- William Hogarth 1697- 1764
The lacks poses seem to bring a almost modern feel to the painting. Beautifully dysfunctional.



A girl with a kitten- Jean-Baptiste Perronneau 1717-1783
An interesting example of a children’s corset and the strange silhouette its give a young figure. A slight uncomfortable painting as there’s an aspect of sexualising a child. A slight dark undertone maybe, but covered with adolescent qualities like the rosy cheeks and kitten.

Drafting

Today Graham Showed us his method of drafting a pattern without using a basic block. I'm looking forward to trying this cause even thought its my weakest area I'm very interested in pattern drafting.

we also got to look in detail and take photos of his corsets for are own research and guidelines for us.



This 18th Century Corset was made using the same pattern we shall be drafting. This corset is only made from two layers of top fabric and enclosed seams. We shall be making ours with two layers of drill and one layer of top fabric so strength.

Decisions, decisions...........

After having a meeting with my tutors I have finalised the three corsets I shall be making. And the winners are –

18th Century ‘half boned stay’



19th Century corset – this one will be going to Arts Ed



Early 20th Century corset – similar to the 19th century one but is straight-fronted, also the boning placement is tricky which makes it much harder to construct.



lovely arnt they.

My Mission..............

Is to make three corsets from different eras each distorting the female silhouette in its historical and individual way. Also to push my techniques and abilities to the next stage while learning the history, social and medical aspects of the female under structure. An added bonus is The Arts Educational School London would like one of these corsets be made and fitted to one of there actresses and become an addition to their costume department.