Tuesday, 27 April 2010

S- Bend Fitting

My last Fitting to do is my straight Fronted Corset. Unfortunately my model for personal reasons could not make the scheduled fitting in the coming week. As I was very conscious that time was moving on I decided to conduct the fitting by myself before she flew home. I was worried by this as the S- bend corset is on the hardest out of my three. Even thought I was worried I believe that I have enough knowledge now to rectify any mistakes. The Pattern doesn’t have all the bones drawn on it as the other two became the boning channels go through seams. I believe that the easiest solution is to get the corset on my model then draw on the bone placement.

The fast task is to make sure that all the seam lines and gussets on the hips are sitting in the right place.

Considering this pattern was quite complex to draft I was glad that overall the fit was correct but need some alterations to get the correct shaping.







Alternation’s needed -

- The hip gussets need to be lifted about 1cm for comfort for the model. I cut off the gusset snipped upwards to make the hole bigger then repinned the new size and shape of the gusset.

- The new size of the gusset had affected the front seam lines so I will take a could of millimetres off each panel piece to achieve the desired shaping.

- The to design line needs to lowered to new chalked line.

The next step was to chalk in where the bone channels needed to be placed. Obviously the bone channels are very important for the structure so placement of this is crucial. Hopefully my model will be able to return soon so I can fit her with the bone channels in place.


Considering this pattern is most complex I have tackled I feel I should be proud of the challenge. It wasn’t as well fitted as the last two fitting but it distorts the figure in a entirely different way. The other two corset make the torso sit behind and synched in waist . Where as the S-Bend corset moves the torso forward. Also this my first attempt to work with gussets . I love the shape it brings to the corset but they are trick to draft perfect first time. I shall make up in the drill with the new adjustments and hope my model can return soon.

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